Taha'a (French Polynesia)

Staying in an over-the-water bungalow has always been on my bucket list. It seemed unreal and out of this world. This year, we decided to just go for it and we spent a lot of time researching a perfect location in French Polynesia, where the over-the-water concept started about 50 years ago. This South Pacific island nation is comprised of 121 islands and atolls.  Since we are not honeymooners (anymore), Bora Bora was out of the question and the reviews also indicated that it's just the name. We found this wonderful place via Relais & Châteaux on the island of Taha'a called, not surprisingly, Le Taha'a.

The flight from San Francisco to Papeete, the capital, takes about 9 hours, which pretty much the same as going to Europe from the Midwest. We stayed at the Hilton Hotel Tahiti near the airport. Why near the airport, you might ask. Well, it was late and it was just a layover, not our end destination. Despite the close proximity to the airport, I don't remember hearing a single plane.

The next day we took another 45 minute domestic flight from Papeete to Raiatea, the sister island of Taha'a. From there we were picked up by a boat directly from the airport and shuttled to the outer island. 40 minute later we arrived at the resort.

The over-the-water bungalow was truly fantastic and during the night the fish were congregating together with sting rays which one could observe from the bed through the glass cabinet. It was outstanding. We went snorkeling every day at the coral gardens, where we saw a big eel, sting rays and an octopus that changed shape to look like a coral. The water level was not very deep and the hotel did not recommend bringing fins, to not damage the coral. Even though we are familiar with fins, we reluctantly complied. There was some current and I personally think that I would have felt more comfortable with fins. I would never touch anything, neither fish nor coral.

It seems as if guests come to the resort for like 3 nights and then go to another island. We felt that it's a waste of time (consider boat ride to island with airport, then flight to new island, possible boat ride to smaller island and so on) and so we stayed here for an entire week. This was the reason why we had bookings for multiple different villas and only the first two nights where in an over-the-water bungalow. The plan was to spend one night in a beach villa and then move to other over-the-water bungalow. The front desk called us to ask if we were willing to move to the Royal Pool Beach Villa a day earlier and we agreed.  You'd think that is crazy, because that is not really what your dream was about. Oh boy, were we surprised by the villa.

It was very modern with a Polynesian twist, such as the thatched roof. Obviously it was on the beach and it features not just one pool but also a plunge pool and a private tub carved out of a rock.

The privacy was guaranteed by the wonderful stone wall made from basalt.

One day we tool the boat from our resort to Taha'a and rented a bicycle to go around the island. The lady in the distillery Mana'o Tahiti was kind enough to call a colleague who rents electric assistant bikes. When we drove by locals going about their business and we said hello in Tahitian la Orana (yo-rah-nah) they all waved back and returned a friendly (yo-rah-nah).

Half away around the island we stopped at La vallée de la vanille to get a better understanding of how vanilla is grown and harvested. It's all hand pollinated and the beans here on Taha's are a lot bigger than anywhere else. Since every step in the process is manual, it's not a surprise that vanilla is considered the second most expensive spice right behind Safran.

After two steep hills we ended up at the distillery again where we sampled the rum and it was quite tasty. The entire 25 mile trip took us about 3 hours of biking. The drizzle we had in the beginning was actually appreciated, because otherwise it would have been too hot.

Right in front of our villa we started snorkeling heading West, closer to the deep blue. We found this area had a lot to offer as well and we saw sting rays and black tip sharks patrolling the shallow waters.

Another advantage was that you could see Bora Bora from here. The mountain looks like where you would expect King Kong to live. The famous island is just about 12 miles away.

The staff was very friendly and helpful. The food, except the BBQ, was delicious. The buffet in the morning had everything you could think of. My favorite was the local fruit and the French toast with vanilla syrup.

Despite the fact that the resort was fully booked, I always had the feeling we were alone. There was so much space and we always found a quiet spot to relax and enjoy being alone.

Even on our way to the beach villa we found a serene place to just be. It almost looked like a local art creation.

The resort proved a wonderful service to help the environment by giving every guest a very nice stainless steel bottle to fill up on multiple water stations serving cold and hot water around the resort. Obviously, the bottles are reusable and now we have a couple at home that are not just convenient but also sleek looking.

I also wanted to point out that since our flight was late in the day, management offered us to stay in our fabulous villa and check out at 16:00, so that we could take a shower after lunch and then head to the dock for the boat ride to the airport on Raiatea. What a service. Thank you.

Chicago

There are many firsts that Chicago is responsible or known for. Chicago has great food and jaw-dropping architecture. In fact, the concept of a high-rise was conceived in Chicago. The Chicago river plays a major role in the city's rich history.

We went on an architectural cruise with Chicago Architecture River Cruise on a perfect day. The trip took us from the Ogden slip near the Navy Pier west to the Chicago river by the Marina Towers

First, we went up the North branch were over the past years people live directly on the river and only bridges in the up position are left as a reminder of a more industrial past.

It isn't always clear where nature starts and where illusions of human creation end.

On the way back to the starting point, the one building dominated the skyline. It was designed by a female architect and is with it's curvy outline perfect for Chicago.

One of Chicago's landmark is found in Grant park, the famous Buckingham fountain, which is one of the largest fountains in the world. We happened to be there at the right time when they turned it on and it appeared in its full glory.

At the North end of the Grant park, the Pavilion was used by a orchestra for a rehearsal of some sort of musical.

Even though it's July, there aren't too many people down town and there is always another angle to enjoy those impressive buildings.

New York

Visiting New York for the first time happens only once and let me tell you, it was quite an experience. I felt sorry for the Lyft driver, because at 6:00pm there was so much traffic coming from the airport. He was very patient but his driving style was a little more aggressive than in other cities. It made sense, otherwise you wouldn't go anywhere.

Anyway, we arrived in our hotel in Midtown and as the same indicates, it's located in the middle of almost everything. Looking at the map, we discovered Wolfgang's Steakhouse, which is located right next door. It became clear that with having 40 years of experience they know exactly how to prepare what turned out to be the best steak we've ever had.

After dinner we walked around and at 10:30pm there was no line to go up to the observation deck of the Empire State building. The temperatures were so mild that even this late a T-shirt was enough. 

The view was fantastic and compared to other cities way more lights illuminated the skyline.

Next morning we were on the hunt for the best New York bagel. We were not disappointed and we'll never see bagels the same way. The dough was perfect and so was the cream cheese. In contradiction to last night's dinner, this dish wins the breakfast category by its simplicity.

Now that we have energy again, we explored the city from top to bottom, 9/11 memorial up to Central Park. 

Hearing about a vegan restaurant that serves plant based food is one thing, but mixing it up with not one or two, but 3 Michelin stars is worth a trip to New York, the city that never sleeps. Please note that we are not Vegans and not even Vegetarians, but we wanted to experience the best food New York has to offer at Eleven Madison Park, which is run by Swiss chef Daniel Humm. The dishes were meticulously prepared and absolutely delicious. The wait staff went out of their way to make our visit special. After not being able to recognizing one of the songs that played softly in the background, they must have overheard us and a few minutes later someone handed us a card with the name of the song. The attention to details was out of this world.

One of the highlights was kind of hidden and we just stumbled on it. It starred in many movies and serves people every day. The architecture of Central Station is beautiful and in stark contrast to all the glass, concrete and steel of other building.

This was my first time in New York and I admit that it's actually a city I could live in. Apartments and businesses are mixed up and this won't be my last time.

Bahamas

We had such a wonderful time. That summarizes a great vacation at the Tiamo Resort on South Andros Island in the Bahamas. We chose this retreat because of its remote location as well as the great food all the reviews raved about. And it's only about 3.5 hours of flying, instead of 8.5 to Hawaii.

Getting there, reminds me of the movie "Around the World in 80 Days" because we took a Lyft to the airport, a plane to Nassau, then another 10 minute flight to the International Airport in Congo Town, followed by a cab ride to the port where Fred, the Manager of the resort, picked us up by boat. A short smooth ride later, we arrived at the actual resort and were greeted by a lemon shark swimming around the pier. What an experience.

We stayed in a villa right on the sandy beach, with a plunge pool. There was enough privacy to take a dip as nature intended. 

The sunsets are just beautiful and very romantic. Every day, we enjoyed the today's special drink by the elevated pool. Since we shared the entire resort with just another couple, there was plenty of alone time. The music was great in the background and as you can see the mood was perfect.

Waking up in the morning was followed by a great breakfast with espresso. There was a Nespresso machine in the cabin, but we forgot our favorite pods. 

The daily program included snorkeling, paddle boarding and kayaking. The water is very clear and thanks to the sandy bottom very turquoise. We often saw sting rays and one even breached the surface and looked at me before he or she scratched his or her back underneath the kayak. 

After a great lunch, it was time to walking along the white sandy beach. With nobody around, it felt like being in paradise.

Fred and Chef Antoine took us out on a boat to a couple of blue holes in the middle of the channel. We were positively surprised by the different varieties of coral and fish. These blue holes have fresh water coming up from the ground and that was very weird. I couldn't help myself to remove the snorkel and taste the water. It was really fresh in the middle of the salty sea.

Dinner was served by the pool and we always enjoyed the choices that were on the menu. Because we are on an island, I tremendously appreciated the fish dishes.

The chef was hunting lion fish and lobster, both of which he prepared for lunch and dinner. The delicious food couldn't have been any fresher. Every meal came with one of my favorite food items, a real, fresh French baguette. No kidding, it was delicious and as a bread connoisseur, I couldn't help myself to eat it all, although it added a couple of pounds to my slender body.

On a side note, just for full transparency, I need to mention the no-see-ums (Ceratopogonidae). We read about people being upset about them and so we prepared for them. Beside us bringing some bug repellant stuff, Tiamo Resort provided a nicely scented oil and it really help to keep those buggers at bay. Usually, I get bit all the time and event though I picked up my share, honestly, the bites didn't bother me that much. Just don't forget your neck and hair line. It must have something to do with a positive attitude. Being here in paradise made more than up for it.

Victor Boulard, the food and beverage manager, was very accommodating and he always recommended the perfect wine, complementing lunch and dinner.

Chef Antoine Laudinot is not just an excellent spear fisherman but also an accomplished creator of the best shrimp I've ever had. He was able to convince me with a conch ceviche that was simply out of this world.

Fred, the manager, is a man of a thousand talents. He, like all the other staff, went out of his way to make our stay as comfortable and memorable as possible.

Thanks you Tiamo!

Mendoza (Argentina)

Mendoza is know for its wine, specifically the Malbec, a grape that originated like so many others in France. We were invited to a wedding and it was the perfect opportunity to plan and go on a trip to South America. It is so close, at least what the longitude concerns and therefore the time zone, even though the flight is about 9 hours and overnight. So, when you wake up, there is no jet lag to deal with. The flight went to Santiago, Chile and then over the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina.

Of course, when in a wine region, the main attraction is to visit different wineries to taste their wonderful products. The wedding was held at Susana Balbo Winery, located about 1 hour south of Mendoza in the foothills of the Andes. The groom's family and friends travelled from Mar del Plata and it was so nice to meet them all. The day after, we went to Solo Contigo Wines. The building was very modern with open concrete and lots of art. Besides Malbec they had a delicious Chardonnay.

In the afternoon, we went to Bodegas Lopez, where a snack was served with their wines. It just happened to be a 22 ounce ribeye. It was absolutely delicious because it was caramelized and that was the best part. As a side note, be aware that Argentina is a meat producing and exporting country. They know their beef and we were just glad that we don't follow a vegetarian diet. We would have missed an experience.

By rental car, we drove about 1 hour south again and checked in the Cavas Wine Lodge, a secluded resort in the middle of a vineyard. They don't produce wine, but sell the grapes to other wineries. Each villa has a fantastic view to the Andes. It was a beautiful day, and it snowed up in the mountains, which created this contrast that was just unreal. While we experienced high 80 degree temperatures, there was plenty of new snow up there. The wonderful backdrop is provided by Cumbre Cerro Plata, a mountain that is 19400 feet tall (almost 6000m). 

After checking in, we didn't even go to our villa yet when we joined the sommelier in the basement for a wine testing (not the first today!). Juan was very knowledgeable and since this was not a winery trying to sell their wines, he offered us his favorite wine in the quaint cellar.

The path to our villa lead through the vineyard underneath the grapes. What an experience! It was very private and had a plunge pool and an outdoor shower that we used every day.

The staff was outstanding, and dinner on the terrace of the lodge was great, and it also showed the ambiance of the hotel.

The next morning, we hopped in our car and drove towards the Andes. Our end destination is Potrerillos, a very small town on a lake created by a dam. Since we ran low on local currency we stocked up here at the ATM of a local bank. The water level of the lake was very low, but the view with the mountains was gorgeous.

The resort provided bikes (18-gear mountain bikes) which allowed us to visit neighboring wineries without driving our car. The access road to the resort is a gravel road and quite manageable, and luckily the terrain is flat. 

The first stop today is Viña Cobos, where we enjoyed a private tasting. Paul Hobbs' mantra is very simple: he wants to produce the world's best Malbec. To nobodies surprise, it's here where we found our favorite Malbec, which earned a between 97 and 100 points. We'll keep it for a while in our cellar until we can confirm the high rating.

As many other wineries here in the area this building is very modern and spacious and built with visible concrete.

In the afternoon we pedaled to Ojo De Agua, a winery that was founded by a Swiss. On the way there we got lost in the endless rows of vines. We knew approximately where we needed to go, but there was no direct access road. Finally, we met a worker who pointed us in the right direction (we didn't speak Spanish and he didn't speak English) and jumping over barbed wire fences and gates in 90 degree heat, we made it about 30 minute late. No worries, after hydrating, we fully enjoyed lunch paired their wonderful wines. They served local specialties such as empanadas and steak.

The ride back to the lodge was very nice and now it was easy to find the service roads through vineyards. Sometimes it pays to get lost.

Before a traditional barbeque dinner, we were invited to a Tango demonstration. The two professional dancers, together with the pianist and the bandoneon player delivered a very memorable performance, which was very acrobatic.

We cannot stress enough that our stay at the Cavas Wine Lodge was simply outstanding and that includes a helpful and friendly staff, which helped resolve the Nespresso machine issue in no time. Just for the record, there is a rounded button at the rear of the base to turn it on.

The flight from Mendoza back to Santiago was uneventful, but the view out the window reminded us that a 1 hour flight could easily turn into a 72 day nightmare. This happened to Uruguayan flight 571 on Friday, October 13, 1972. We were less than 20 miles away from the crash site.

We decided to stay in Santiago for one night and that was a great decision. We had a fantastic dinner at Karai, a Japanese influenced, very hip restaurant. We sat at the bar watching the chefs create all those wonderful dishes.

And after that we enjoyed a cocktail at the rooftop bar, which also featured a swimming pool. We knew exactly what that meant: get up early in the morning and take a swim. And that is exactly what we did. It was a little chilly, and definitely awakening.

After finding a café serving espresso and croissants, we strolled through downtown Santiago, which is very pedestrian friendly with generous side walks. There is art all over the place and it's not busy even during work week.

We took the gondola up to San Cristobal Hill, which is surrounded by the city. It's very popular and the view is great. One can also walk up the hill, but we are too lazy for that and wanted to just enjoy the panorama.

At lunch time we found a small restaurant called Fractal and it offers some unique dishes. We had to try their truffle dish, which we tremendously enjoyed with a glass of Chardonnay (or two).

This vacation was a little adventure and we celebrated the end with an appropriate drink. South America, we will not forget you and we are thinking of coming back again. There is so much more to explore in Chile or Argentina, such as Patagonia or other wine regions in Chile.

Versailles

This trip to France is a first for many reasons, one of which is that I left my DSLR at home, which felt weird at first. However, with the iPhone having a more and more capable camera, I realized that is quite ok. This is a shot at Place Vendôme with the famous column in the very center taken with the 0.5 wide angle lens.

Paintings of Clause Monet are found in museums all over the world, but none are as hidden as Musée Marmottan Monet. 

The paintings found a home in the basement of a magnificent townhouse and they are some of the most impressionable. For what ever reasons, this is our first time here and I would definitely recommend a visit.

Paints of Clause Monet are found in museums all over the world, but none are as hidden as Musée Marmottan Monet. The paintings are in the basement of a magnificent townhouse.

We never felt the need to go to the Musée Rodin either, but this time we did go and it was amazing what Rodin was able to create besides the famous Thinker.

This bronze bust from Jules Dalou is a wonderful example of what the artist was capable of producing.

The main attraction was to stay at the Trianon Palace in Versailles. It is located right next the famous gardens where kings and other royalty took strolls.

The swimming pool was underground and offered a welcome atmosphere to cool down and relax. We had a fantastic dinner on the terrace facing the gardens watching sheep, probably descendants of those that Marie Antoinette petted, roaming lush meadows.

Visiting the Palace must have been so exciting when the king with is court was still here. Nowadays, the hallways are filled with other people that have the same idea. Early birds are rewarded with empty corridors and bedrooms.

The COVID protocol is still in place, which requires one to make a reservation and request a specific time slot. Since we stayed in walking distance to the entrance, we picked the earliest time and although there was a long line already, we made it to the Hall of Mirrors in no time with very few other people. It was such a great experience.

Because it was a beautiful day and we spent the better part of it walking in the famous gardens. The village that Marie Antoinette built, was out of place. She must not have liked being the queen, why else would you pick a peasant lifestyle over luxury?

The grounds even features an manmade grotto where Marie Antoinette was found and consequently arrested in 1792.

The grounds of the royal gardens are so vast that there is plenty of space for other palaces. I guess, just in case the king wanted a change in his life. They were smaller, but still very nice for that time.

Back in Paris, we visited a museum about modern colonialism and native art from all over the world. It is named after the former French President Jacques Chirac, who apparently liked foreign cultures so much that he built a modern building right next to the Eiffel Tower to house his huge collection of native art.

 

The lighting is great and allows visitors to focus on each and every piece that mean so much to people where it came from.

As you can imagine, it was a great vacation during which we experienced so many firsts.