Safari in South Africa

One continent we have never been to is Africa and the first thought that comes to my mind is going on a safari. For whatever reason, Kruger National Park in South Africa stands out. After finding out that Kruger is surrounded by private nature reserves that allow off-roading, we were all excited. In addition, there are no fences anymore between the National Park the the private reserves. The animals can freely roam as they like. Kruger has very strict rules as they allow self-driving and that is not something we wanted to do anyway. We were more interested in a guide showing us wildlife.

Initially, we wanted to spend 10 days in just one camp because we didn't want to spend time to travel from one camp to the next. However, the travel agency Icon Expeditions highly recommended 2 camps so that we would be able to experience different landscapes.

Fortunate for us, there was a direct flight from the US to Johannesburg, where we spent a couple of days to acclimatize to the time zone. A very friendly driver called Siyabonga (meaning thank you) picked us up at the OR Tambo International Airport and drove us to the 4 Seasons Hotel situated on a cliff. We enjoyed a great view towards the local zoo.

From Johannesburg we took a flight to Hoedspruit Airport, where we were picked up by a professional driver who safely navigated the dry landscape. For the first time in our lives we saw wild giraffes. They were just there grazing along the road and I was trying not to geek out. After about 90 minutes he dropped us off at Kings Camp in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, where we were greeted by the staff. Because the plane was a little later than usual, we were encouraged to go on our first safari before we even saw the room and changed. So, we grabbed our cameras and took a seat in the open jeep and off we went.

At the first water hole we saw two lions (king of the jungle) resting on one end and on the other two white rhinos taking a mud bath.

Eventually, a heard of elephants showed up and the male and female lion took off because they didn't feel safe. Who's the king now?

The animals were not bothered by our presence at all nor were they intimidated. It seemed that they are used to the jeep and they just see us as a blob. We are amazed how close those animals came and simply ignored us. They went on with their daily activities.

Our daily routine started with a phone call at 5:00 to make sure that we were up and running for the day. We headed over to the lodge where they served coffee or espresso and some snacks. At 5:30 it was time to hop onto the jeep and head out to track and find animals. You never know what you're going to see today. The rangers were in constant radio contact with each other and if one jeep found something interesting he'd let all the other know about the location.

Another group found this female leopard early in the morning. As soon as we arrived one jeep left so that a maximum only 2 jeeps were with this gorgeous animal. This rule really makes a lot of sense to minimize the human impact on wildlife. In contrast, Kruger doesn't have this limitation and this might cause self-drivers to surround wild life, which is less than ideal.

Kings Camp is a five-star resort and its décor is very colonial. The cabin is very generous and there is a lot of accessories that one would have to make it nice and comfortable to feel at home. Each villa had their own private plunge pool and an even more private outdoor shower. There was a real zebra hide on our bathroom floor. From the deck one can observe wild life down by the water hole and we had a herd of impalas to come right through our camp. Who knows what's coming through here at night when it's all dark.

Not too long ago Kings Camp built a hide by their water hole to see animals up an close. We spent a couple hours here during the height of the day when the temperature hovered around 100°F. A live feed allows anyone to see what's going on. For this one does not need a long lens, on the contrary, the animals can get really close.

On every game drive our ranger Grant and tracker Goodman showed us something we haven't seen yet. Grant was very knowledgeable not just about facts but also about the behavior.

Did you know that a group of zebras are called a dazzle?

And did you know that a group of giraffes are called a journey? Who comes up with this stuff, anyway?

After having high tea at 3:30pm it is time to get ready for the evening drive starting at 4:00pm. Later on one of the days, Grant stepped on the gas pedal and we ask why the hurry, but he would not give away the surprise. I'm sure the last row experienced some air time. After maybe 20 minutes driving on dirt roads we started off-roading and eventually saw why. Another group spotted a young male cheetah, who recently lost his brother in a lion attack. What a sight. The cheetah walked very slowly and eventually laid down to rest. If it wasn't for the other jeep no one would have spotted the resting cheetah because they blend in so well.

Next day we visited a hyena borrow where only one adult was left to look over multiple cubs. They look menacing.

We stumbled upon a family of white rhinos one of which presumably the male had a huge horn. They would not stop grazing.

They seem to be safe from poachers here in Timbavati because we needed to pass through a security check point where we even had to open the trunk.

The park is full of all different kinds of antelopes, such as waterbuck or wildebeest, the poor man's buffalo. There is also tons of impalas, a staple food item for many predators

Originating at a time when hunters would go to Africa during the colonial times and shoot wild life with riffles and not cameras, many would not stop before they killed the "Big Five", elephant, rhino, lion, leopard and buffalo. The most feared one was the buffalo, probably because people underestimated the potential. So far we have seen four of them.

On our last day our tracker managed to find a small family of buffalos. They were ruminating and very relaxed. Our ranger Grant didn't like the Land Cruiser from Toyota as much as the Land Rover: "It has way superior suspensions". As soon as his colleague pulled up with a Land Cruiser, the buffalos got up and Grant remarked: "See, not even buffalos like Land Cruisers"

Grant was like a walking encyclopedia as he knew a lot about so many species, for example birds. Many visitors don't pay much attention, but some are very colorful. There is different species of eagles, vultures and marabous.

Our last drive was exciting before and after the obligatory G+T sun-downer somewhere in an opening, which Grant would check out before he told us that it's safe. This was a welcomed opportunity to answers nature's call and make room for an ice cold drink of your choice. Our choice was always gin and tonic to which we grew accustomed to very quickly.

Anyway, the exciting part was finding a leopard with it's kill on a tree branch. As you may know, leopards are excellent climbers and we spotted a female with her kill.

Unlike other wild life, the leopard was not bothered by the spot light and it was great seeing this well fed predator enjoying a relaxing evening.

What a great experience and we have so many more days ahead of us. Typically, after we got back from the evening drive, dinner was prepared and it was outstanding. The wait staff was great and every night we needed to be escorted back to the cabin because the wild life is right here and everywhere. We were also told to lock our door and not just close it because the baboons will open the door and ransack your room. It's always funny to see those monkeys run around with your underwear on top of their heads.

On the next day our plan was to drive from one game reserve Timbavati to Sabi Sands. On time, we were picked up by a driver from Sable Tours. It was all organized by our travel agency Icon Expeditions. 

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Leaving Timbavati meant to exit through the gate where we were checked again for contraband by armed rangers. After a 3 hour ride were we learned so much about families getting land from the chief so that they can build a home on it. Most of the homes weren't finished yet because they built it themselves whenever they can afford building material. A cinder-block cost about 5 pennies and it takes a lot of then to build a home. 

When we entered Sabi Sands through another gate we noticed a sign stating that one should NOT follow GPS. Our driver knew exactly where to drop us off.

Like so many other unique hotels we have visited before, we found Silvan Safari through Relais & Chateaux. These hotels are family-owned and every single one is always special. We were greeted by the super friendly staff with a refreshing towel and drink, which was so refreshing after sitting in the car for so long.

Our butler David, our driver/ranger Tendai and our tracker Remember were assigned to us and we felt so lucky to have such a personalized service. It was great to get to know them better through our stay.

The entrance to the main building was very inviting and open. Someone with a lot of taste put together an eclectic collection of art.

Different colors, textures and material made up not just the public areas, but also the private villas, which were all different. We ended up in the Blue Guarri Suite which was absolutely fabulous. We had our own plunge pool and outdoor shower and a huge bathroom with 2 shower heads. The villa was build on the banks of a now dry river, overlooking the other side were elephants and antelopes would wander through. Our camp had a resident leopard (they call her Tiyani) which a few days ago had brought up a kill onto our deck. We never saw her, but we are convinced that she saw us. 

On one of our morning drives we spotted another female leopard. She was just resting on a rock and she seem to enjoy the raising sun the same way we did.

The white rhinos here have smaller or even removed horns for their own protection. We stumbled upon a family that was grazing. No surprise here because they spend about halve the day eating up to 120 pounds of grass.

One difference we noticed immediately and that was that the landscape was different. The terrain was more open which allowed our guide and tracker to follow some lion tracks.

After some off-roading we came found a family of mostly lionesses soaking in the warmth of the morning sun.

Even though it's the dry season there are still some water holes that are big enough to be home for a family of hippos. Their living space is severely limited every year and eventually, the rain will start again and allow them to wonder off to other holes. Just imagine, what it feels like if you're trapped with all your in-laws.

This elder bull was very much concentrated on the branches that only he could reach. Was that branch really better than anything else laying on the ground. It all looked so dried up. Overall, elephants are very destructive. If they feel like eating fresh roots, they just push over the entire tree.

This hairdo seems to be fashionable for warthogs. When they run, the hair flies like a flag. Even thought they don't look aggressive, they are capable of creating some damage with their tusks, especially when they defend their offspring.

This older termite hill now serves as a hyaena den and is conveniently located underneath a nice shady tree which is very much appreciated in the summer.

Typically, there is only a single adult watching of the kids, while the other adult are hunting.

On one of the evening drives, the ranger rushed us up North where we encountered a herd of buffalos. Tendai estimated the size to be about 700 individuals and it was quite a sight. They were absolutely not intimidated by us, in other words: size matters.

Here at Silvan Safari, the morning drive starts at 6:00, because "they are civilized". For the afternoon drive, starting after high tea, our butler David prepared a sippy cup for us. It was a G+T (Gin and Tonic) with a lot of ice. Now imagine, we had to hold on to the jeep because the road is bouncy, but also to the camera besides the cup with only two hands. The solution was to keep the cup between the feet so that we could take pictures. But even that was quite "challenging".

One of the highlights was spotting a pride of lazy lions. They were just resting from the hunt during the previous night.

All of a sudden we hear commotion and then our tracker spotted a big male leopard cautiously waking up to a hill where he could observe the lions. They were not even 50 yards apart and we were right in the middle. It was a standoff and no party would concede. 

We left the leopard and, on our way back to the dirt road, we spend a little more time with the lions and discovered that they had a cub. They eventually got up and moved to another location.

On our last evening drive, we just came around a bend to head down a ravine when a herd of elephants came out of the bush very quietly. Obviously we stopped immediately. Lead by a juvenile, they headed somewhere in a single file without making any sound. It was surreal.

Each evening, before heading home we stopped somewhere in the bush and had a sun-downer. There is nothing like a sunset in Africa. It is really spectacular.

Here's a couple observations:

• There is poop everywhere. All dried up but everywhere.
• At the end of September it was cold (in the 50s) in the morning and late at night, so bring your beanie and gloves, especially for the drives.
• At noon the temperature could easily reach 90s, so the spread was incredible. So, prepare to change your attire a couple of times. Bring loose clothing also.
• It was very dry and we didn't see or feel any mosquitos. However, we still taking our regiment of anti-malaria pills.
• Going on safari is like going scuba diving. You see a lot of wild life, but you never know what is around the corner.
• We both used a mirrorless Nikon Z8 camera with a 28-400mm f/4-8 VR lens. Even though the lens is not as light sensitive as I wanted it to be, it was ok. The camera was fabulous, especially the 3D tracking.
  

It’s not an experience of a lifetime, it’s a life experience that creates a memory that will not be forgotten.

Tiamo (Bahamas)

The Tiamo Resort is so remote, that only one other couple found it and made arrangements during our stay. It felt as if we had an entire island just for ourselves. Fred, the manager picked us up at the harbor where the road from Congo Town ends.

The new chef from Argentina and his wife treated us with their wonderful creations. Both of them joined us on some of our snorkeling trips. Especially those to the blue holes are memorable. Fresh water is coming up from caverns deep under ground. This is how they fill up the Ocean. Not only are there a lot of coral, but also a plethora of fish, big and small, and some of them very colorful. We (the chef) caught a big lobster (his first), and for dinner we were able to enjoy a fantastic appetizer.

Before dinner we always had an aperitive served by the main lodge. Sometimes, it was early enough to enjoy the drink by the pool and sometimes we chose to sip it by the bar.

For lunch, we usually preferred to sit closer to the beach underneath the blue sails. These sails inspired us to put up our own sails in the backyard at home. It creates such a nice and cozy atmosphere even though we don't have a beach. That's why our sails are tan.

The water is calm and warm and because it's not that deep it presents itself in turquoise color as one would expect in the Bahamas. Isn't this one of the reasons why we come here. And yes, it is close and convenient also.

One of a new snorkel site site we visited is called "Swimming Pool". It started out as a harbor for the US Navy on an island just north of the tip of South Andros. The visibility was great and the water was calm. This pool is home to a lot of fish and a couple of turtles. We snorkeled the entire perimeter back and forth. 

Even though we had our own plunge pool by our villa, the resort has a bigger one by the main lodge. We never took advantage, because we are here for the Ocean.

In front of the resort, the water is typically very calm and ideal for paddle boarding. Early in the morning we went an our daily kayak trip up or down the coast. Some of the sting rays were very big and one could easily spot them with our polarized glasses.

We had a great time and left early in the morning to catch a small plane from Congo Town back to Nassau and then back to the states.

Taha'a (French Polynesia)

Staying in an over-the-water bungalow has always been on my bucket list. It seemed unreal and out of this world. This year, we decided to just go for it and we spent a lot of time researching a perfect location in French Polynesia, where the over-the-water concept started about 50 years ago. This South Pacific island nation is comprised of 121 islands and atolls.  Since we are not honeymooners (anymore), Bora Bora was out of the question and the reviews also indicated that it's just the name. We found this wonderful place via Relais & Châteaux on the island of Taha'a called, not surprisingly, Le Taha'a.

The flight from San Francisco to Papeete, the capital, takes about 9 hours, which pretty much the same as going to Europe from the Midwest. We stayed at the Hilton Hotel Tahiti near the airport. Why near the airport, you might ask. Well, it was late and it was just a layover, not our end destination. Despite the close proximity to the airport, I don't remember hearing a single plane.

The next day we took another 45 minute domestic flight from Papeete to Raiatea, the sister island of Taha'a. From there we were picked up by a boat directly from the airport and shuttled to the outer island. 40 minute later we arrived at the resort.

The over-the-water bungalow was truly fantastic and during the night the fish were congregating together with sting rays which one could observe from the bed through the glass cabinet. It was outstanding. We went snorkeling every day at the coral gardens, where we saw a big eel, sting rays and an octopus that changed shape to look like a coral. The water level was not very deep and the hotel did not recommend bringing fins, to not damage the coral. Even though we are familiar with fins, we reluctantly complied. There was some current and I personally think that I would have felt more comfortable with fins. I would never touch anything, neither fish nor coral.

It seems as if guests come to the resort for like 3 nights and then go to another island. We felt that it's a waste of time (consider boat ride to island with airport, then flight to new island, possible boat ride to smaller island and so on) and so we stayed here for an entire week. This was the reason why we had bookings for multiple different villas and only the first two nights were in an over-the-water bungalow. The plan was to spend one night in a beach villa and then move to other over-the-water bungalow. The front desk called us to ask if we were willing to move to the Royal Pool Beach Villa a day earlier and we agreed.  You'd think that is crazy, because that is not really what your dream was about. Oh boy, were we surprised by the villa.

It was very modern with a Polynesian twist, such as the thatched roof. Obviously it was on the beach and it features not just one pool but also a plunge pool and a private tub carved out of a rock.

The privacy was guaranteed by the wonderful stone wall made from basalt.

One day we took the boat from our resort to Taha'a and rented a bicycle to go around the island. The lady in the distillery Mana'o Tahiti was kind enough to call a colleague who rents electric assistant bikes. When we drove by locals going about their business and we said hello in Tahitian la Orana (yo-rah-nah) they all waved back and returned a friendly (yo-rah-nah).

Half away around the island we stopped at La vallée de la vanille to get a better understanding of how vanilla is grown and harvested. It's all hand pollinated and the beans here on Taha's are a lot bigger than anywhere else. Since every step in the process is manual, it's not a surprise that vanilla is considered the second most expensive spice right behind Safran.

After two steep hills we ended up at the distillery again where we sampled the rum and it was quite tasty. The entire 25 mile trip took us about 3 hours of biking. The drizzle we had in the beginning was actually appreciated, because otherwise it would have been too hot.

Right in front of our villa we started snorkeling heading West, closer to the deep blue. We found this area had a lot to offer as well and we saw sting rays and black tip sharks patrolling the shallow waters.

Another advantage was that you could see Bora Bora from here. The mountain looks like where you would expect King Kong to live. The famous island is just about 12 miles away.

The staff was very friendly and helpful. The food, except the BBQ, was delicious. The buffet in the morning had everything you could think of. My favorite was the local fruit and the French toast with vanilla syrup.

Despite the fact that the resort was fully booked, I always had the feeling we were alone. There was so much space and we always found a quiet spot to relax and enjoy being alone.

Even on our way to the beach villa we found a serene place to just be. It almost looked like a local art creation.

The resort proved a wonderful service to help the environment by giving every guest a very nice stainless steel bottle to fill up on multiple water stations serving cold and hot water around the resort. Obviously, the bottles are reusable and now we have a couple at home that are not just convenient but also sleek looking.

I also wanted to point out that since our flight was late in the day, management offered us to stay in our fabulous villa and check out at 16:00, so that we could take a shower after lunch and then head to the dock for the boat ride to the airport on Raiatea. What a service. Thank you.

Chicago

There are many firsts that Chicago is responsible or known for. Chicago has great food and jaw-dropping architecture. In fact, the concept of a high-rise was conceived in Chicago. The Chicago river plays a major role in the city's rich history.

We went on an architectural cruise with Chicago Architecture River Cruise on a perfect day. The trip took us from the Ogden slip near the Navy Pier west to the Chicago river by the Marina Towers

First, we went up the North branch were over the past years people live directly on the river and only bridges in the up position are left as a reminder of a more industrial past.

It isn't always clear where nature starts and where illusions of human creation end.

On the way back to the starting point, the one building dominated the skyline. It was designed by a female architect and is with it's curvy outline perfect for Chicago.

One of Chicago's landmark is found in Grant park, the famous Buckingham fountain, which is one of the largest fountains in the world. We happened to be there at the right time when they turned it on and it appeared in its full glory.

At the North end of the Grant park, the Pavilion was used by a orchestra for a rehearsal of some sort of musical.

Even though it's July, there aren't too many people down town and there is always another angle to enjoy those impressive buildings.

New York

Visiting New York for the first time happens only once and let me tell you, it was quite an experience. I felt sorry for the Lyft driver, because at 6:00pm there was so much traffic coming from the airport. He was very patient but his driving style was a little more aggressive than in other cities. It made sense, otherwise you wouldn't go anywhere.

Anyway, we arrived in our hotel in Midtown and as the same indicates, it's located in the middle of almost everything. Looking at the map, we discovered Wolfgang's Steakhouse, which is located right next door. It became clear that with having 40 years of experience they know exactly how to prepare what turned out to be the best steak we've ever had.

After dinner we walked around and at 10:30pm there was no line to go up to the observation deck of the Empire State building. The temperatures were so mild that even this late a T-shirt was enough. 

The view was fantastic and compared to other cities way more lights illuminated the skyline.

Next morning we were on the hunt for the best New York bagel. We were not disappointed and we'll never see bagels the same way. The dough was perfect and so was the cream cheese. In contradiction to last night's dinner, this dish wins the breakfast category by its simplicity.

Now that we have energy again, we explored the city from top to bottom, 9/11 memorial up to Central Park. 

Hearing about a vegan restaurant that serves plant based food is one thing, but mixing it up with not one or two, but 3 Michelin stars is worth a trip to New York, the city that never sleeps. Please note that we are not Vegans and not even Vegetarians, but we wanted to experience the best food New York has to offer at Eleven Madison Park, which is run by Swiss chef Daniel Humm. The dishes were meticulously prepared and absolutely delicious. The wait staff went out of their way to make our visit special. After not being able to recognizing one of the songs that played softly in the background, they must have overheard us and a few minutes later someone handed us a card with the name of the song. The attention to details was out of this world.

One of the highlights was kind of hidden and we just stumbled on it. It starred in many movies and serves people every day. The architecture of Central Station is beautiful and in stark contrast to all the glass, concrete and steel of other building.

This was my first time in New York and I admit that it's actually a city I could live in. Apartments and businesses are mixed up and this won't be my last time.

Bahamas

We had such a wonderful time. That summarizes a great vacation at the Tiamo Resort on South Andros Island in the Bahamas. We chose this retreat because of its remote location as well as the great food all the reviews raved about. And it's only about 3.5 hours of flying, instead of 8.5 to Hawaii.

Getting there, reminds me of the movie "Around the World in 80 Days" because we took a Lyft to the airport, a plane to Nassau, then another 10 minute flight to the International Airport in Congo Town, followed by a cab ride to the port where Fred, the Manager of the resort, picked us up by boat. A short smooth ride later, we arrived at the actual resort and were greeted by a lemon shark swimming around the pier. What an experience.

We stayed in a villa right on the sandy beach, with a plunge pool. There was enough privacy to take a dip as nature intended. 

The sunsets are just beautiful and very romantic. Every day, we enjoyed the today's special drink by the elevated pool. Since we shared the entire resort with just another couple, there was plenty of alone time. The music was great in the background and as you can see the mood was perfect.

Waking up in the morning was followed by a great breakfast with espresso. There was a Nespresso machine in the cabin, but we forgot our favorite pods. 

The daily program included snorkeling, paddle boarding and kayaking. The water is very clear and thanks to the sandy bottom very turquoise. We often saw sting rays and one even breached the surface and looked at me before he or she scratched his or her back underneath the kayak. 

After a great lunch, it was time to walking along the white sandy beach. With nobody around, it felt like being in paradise.

Fred and Chef Antoine took us out on a boat to a couple of blue holes in the middle of the channel. We were positively surprised by the different varieties of coral and fish. These blue holes have fresh water coming up from the ground and that was very weird. I couldn't help myself to remove the snorkel and taste the water. It was really fresh in the middle of the salty sea.

Dinner was served by the pool and we always enjoyed the choices that were on the menu. Because we are on an island, I tremendously appreciated the fish dishes.

The chef was hunting lion fish and lobster, both of which he prepared for lunch and dinner. The delicious food couldn't have been any fresher. Every meal came with one of my favorite food items, a real, fresh French baguette. No kidding, it was delicious and as a bread connoisseur, I couldn't help myself to eat it all, although it added a couple of pounds to my slender body.

On a side note, just for full transparency, I need to mention the no-see-ums (Ceratopogonidae). We read about people being upset about them and so we prepared for them. Beside us bringing some bug repellant stuff, Tiamo Resort provided a nicely scented oil and it really help to keep those buggers at bay. Usually, I get bit all the time and event though I picked up my share, honestly, the bites didn't bother me that much. Just don't forget your neck and hair line. It must have something to do with a positive attitude. Being here in paradise made more than up for it.

Victor Boulard, the food and beverage manager, was very accommodating and he always recommended the perfect wine, complementing lunch and dinner.

Chef Antoine Laudinot is not just an excellent spear fisherman but also an accomplished creator of the best shrimp I've ever had. He was able to convince me with a conch ceviche that was simply out of this world.

Fred, the manager, is a man of a thousand talents. He, like all the other staff, went out of his way to make our stay as comfortable and memorable as possible.

Thanks you Tiamo!