Mendoza (Argentina)

Mendoza is know for its wine, specifically the Malbec, a grape that originated like so many others in France. We were invited to a wedding and it was the perfect opportunity to plan and go on a trip to South America. It is so close, at least what the longitude concerns and therefore the time zone, even though the flight is about 9 hours and overnight. So, when you wake up, there is no jet lag to deal with. The flight went to Santiago, Chile and then over the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina.

Of course, when in a wine region, the main attraction is to visit different wineries to taste their wonderful products. The wedding was held at Susana Balbo Winery, located about 1 hour south of Mendoza in the foothills of the Andes. The groom's family and friends travelled from Mar del Plata and it was so nice to meet them all. The day after, we went to Solo Contigo Wines. The building was very modern with open concrete and lots of art. Besides Malbec they had a delicious Chardonnay.

In the afternoon, we went to Bodegas Lopez, where a snack was served with their wines. It just happened to be a 22 ounce ribeye. It was absolutely delicious because it was caramelized and that was the best part. As a side note, be aware that Argentina is a meat producing and exporting country. They know their beef and we were just glad that we don't follow a vegetarian diet. We would have missed an experience.

By rental car, we drove about 1 hour south again and checked in the Cavas Wine Lodge, a secluded resort in the middle of a vineyard. They don't produce wine, but sell the grapes to other wineries. Each villa has a fantastic view to the Andes. It was a beautiful day, and it snowed up in the mountains, which created this contrast that was just unreal. While we experienced high 80 degree temperatures, there was plenty of new snow up there. The wonderful backdrop is provided by Cumbre Cerro Plata, a mountain that is 19400 feet tall (almost 6000m). 

After checking in, we didn't even go to our villa yet when we joined the sommelier in the basement for a wine testing (not the first today!). Juan was very knowledgeable and since this was not a winery trying to sell their wines, he offered us his favorite wine in the quaint cellar.

The path to our villa lead through the vineyard underneath the grapes. What an experience! It was very private and had a plunge pool and an outdoor shower that we used every day.

The staff was outstanding, and dinner on the terrace of the lodge was great, and it also showed the ambiance of the hotel.

The next morning, we hopped in our car and drove towards the Andes. Our end destination is Potrerillos, a very small town on a lake created by a dam. Since we ran low on local currency we stocked up here at the ATM of a local bank. The water level of the lake was very low, but the view with the mountains was gorgeous.

The resort provided bikes (18-gear mountain bikes) which allowed us to visit neighboring wineries without driving our car. The access road to the resort is a gravel road and quite manageable, and luckily the terrain is flat. 

The first stop today is Viña Cobos, where we enjoyed a private tasting. Paul Hobbs' mantra is very simple: he wants to produce the world's best Malbec. To nobodies surprise, it's here where we found our favorite Malbec, which earned a between 97 and 100 points. We'll keep it for a while in our cellar until we can confirm the high rating.

As many other wineries here in the area this building is very modern and spacious and built with visible concrete.

In the afternoon we pedaled to Ojo De Agua, a winery that was founded by a Swiss. On the way there we got lost in the endless rows of vines. We knew approximately where we needed to go, but there was no direct access road. Finally, we met a worker who pointed us in the right direction (we didn't speak Spanish and he didn't speak English) and jumping over barbed wire fences and gates in 90 degree heat, we made it about 30 minute late. No worries, after hydrating, we fully enjoyed lunch paired their wonderful wines. They served local specialties such as empanadas and steak.

The ride back to the lodge was very nice and now it was easy to find the service roads through vineyards. Sometimes it pays to get lost.

Before a traditional barbeque dinner, we were invited to a Tango demonstration. The two professional dancers, together with the pianist and the bandoneon player delivered a very memorable performance, which was very acrobatic.

We cannot stress enough that our stay at the Cavas Wine Lodge was simply outstanding and that includes a helpful and friendly staff, which helped resolve the Nespresso machine issue in no time. Just for the record, there is a rounded button at the rear of the base to turn it on.

The flight from Mendoza back to Santiago was uneventful, but the view out the window reminded us that a 1 hour flight could easily turn into a 72 day nightmare. This happened to Uruguayan flight 571 on Friday, October 13, 1972. We were less than 20 miles away from the crash site.

We decided to stay in Santiago for one night and that was a great decision. We had a fantastic dinner at Karai, a Japanese influenced, very hip restaurant. We sat at the bar watching the chefs create all those wonderful dishes.

And after that we enjoyed a cocktail at the rooftop bar, which also featured a swimming pool. We knew exactly what that meant: get up early in the morning and take a swim. And that is exactly what we did. It was a little chilly, and definitely awakening.

After finding a café serving espresso and croissants, we strolled through downtown Santiago, which is very pedestrian friendly with generous side walks. There is art all over the place and it's not busy even during work week.

We took the gondola up to San Cristobal Hill, which is surrounded by the city. It's very popular and the view is great. One can also walk up the hill, but we are too lazy for that and wanted to just enjoy the panorama.

At lunch time we found a small restaurant called Fractal and it offers some unique dishes. We had to try their truffle dish, which we tremendously enjoyed with a glass of Chardonnay (or two).

This vacation was a little adventure and we celebrated the end with an appropriate drink. South America, we will not forget you and we are thinking of coming back again. There is so much more to explore in Chile or Argentina, such as Patagonia or other wine regions in Chile.