Tarasp (Engadin, Switzerland)

Tarasp is a sleepy town in the canton of Graubünden and part of the lower Engadin, a valley that stretches from St. Moritz northeast towards Austria. We stayed at the family owned Hotel Chastè, that offers very quant rooms, most of which have a wonderful view of the castle.

On Friday, Saturday and Sunday they offer a Gourmet menu that truly deserves recognition from Michelin. The chef paid attention to preparing all the courses with locally grown ingrediencies. It was quite a culinary treat. The wonderful dinner was completed with a local Chardonnay, a surprise when considering the canton of Graubünden is very mountainous.

Visiting the museum Susch will surprise most first timers, as one would not expect to see this kind of art exhibited in such a small village. We can highly recommend a stop to check it out. 

One of the most picturesque villages in this valley is hands down Guarda, which kept its charm. One parks outside of the village and its very easy to explore it on foot.

Right above the village there is a short hike of about 1:30 hours, called the Schellen-Ursli Weg. The view over the valley is great. The trail is based on the children's book, written and illustrated by a local artist.

Because the weather was nice and we were in the neighborhood, we decided to take the aerial tram from Silvaplana up to the Corvatsch, from where you get an unobstructed view of Piz Bernina with the Bianco Ridge to the left. Years ago, were hiked on the other side of Piz Bernina down from the Diavolezza onto the glacier right in front of Piz Palü.

Nowadays, the Corvatsch is not only known for its fabulous 360 degree panorama, but also for the Orma whisky, some of which is distilled at the top (3303 meters). It took me quite a while to get someone from the (due to illness) limited staff to open up the gift shop so that I could buy a bottle of this unique liquor.

One day, we hiked from S-charl via Alp Astra through God da Tamangur again, and this time, it was a wonderful day. 

At the end of this trip, nothing is more refreshing than a local specialty from Appenzeller Beer with a wonderful view of green meadows complimented with the gentle sound of cow bells from the other side of the valley.

Medieval Castle in Tarasp

This year we decided to go hiking in the Swiss National Park, which is located in the canton of Graubünden. We found the family owned Schlosshotel Chastè in Tarasp, located in Unter Engadin (Lower Engadin).

Believe it or not, the luxury hotel comes with its own castle that towers over the valley. Just kidding, but the hotel is located in the lower right corner and it's only a stone through away. Obviously, guests can see the castle from the hotel.
The rooms are lovely and the staff is outstanding. The Parzeller family who owns the hotel is proud to makes sure the service is impeccable and we can confirm it: it's impeccable.

Without a doubt, the tasting menu deserves one or more Michelin stars. The chef mixes local and seasonal specialties creating culinary delights, that is best enjoyed with a wine paring. They offer a great selection of local and imported wines.

The castle is owned by a Swiss artist called Not Vital. His art collection together with his own art are displayed in and around the castle. The beautiful castle is decorated with art from Andy Warhol, Picasso and others.
The moon in the castle pond, where they used to raise carp, is one of Not's sculptures.

The local architecture is unique and includes traditional engraving into the concrete facade, called Sgraffiti, paint would fade during the harsh winters with such an intense alpine sun.

Even though we drove through the Swiss National Park, we never made it on hiking boots. However, we hiked from S-charl along the river to Alp Astra and then back through Tamangur (National Forest). This is one of the oldest and Europe's highest ceder forest. It started to rain while we were in the forest and it just added to the mystical surrounding.

Seealpsee - Switzerland

We love hiking and whenever we are in Switzerland, we find a destination that is worth hiking to. This year we spent some time in the canton of Appenzell and hiked up to the Seealpsee above Wasserauen.
As it is very common in this region, there is a restaurant right by the lake that serves local specialties.

We can highly recommend the local Appenzeller beer which has a brew that has this very lake on its label. It's called "Quöllfrisch" and as the name indicates it is very refreshing, especially after a hike. You should try it out.

Train Ride in Switzerland

Not that I am a train buff, but riding the steam train of the Furka Oberalp railway was definitely one of the highlights of this year. The cogwheel railway was reopened in 2010 to the public during the summer, after a maintenance crew re-installs a bridge every spring (otherwise it would be swept away by avalanches).

Steam Engine of Furka Oberalp

The vintage engine gets a well-deserved rest at the entrance of the summit tunnel.

Säntis (Appenzell)

September is a great time to travel and not just because the people are back from their vacation but usually the weather is fantastic too. We took advantage of that and took the cable car from the Schwägalp to the highest mountain in the region. 

The Säntis is 2501m above sea level and part of the Alpstein, The panorama is great and one can see Germany, Austria, Lichtenstein and some peaks from Italy as well as Switzerland.

There is a old weather station at the top was built in 1882, and it's fully automated these days.

The restaurant on top provides a fantastic buffet with fresh bread and Bircher Müesli and other local specialties, such as Appenzeller cheese and Birnbrot (Pear Bread).

In the past, the Appenzeller land was a closed off regions and as such is home of a lot of traditions. One that is still practiced every year is leading the younger cows up the the alpine meadows in the spring and bringing them back home again in the fall. In the fall, it's called Alpabfahrt. The Senn (care taker) and his helpers dress up in the traditional uniform with a red vest and yellow pants. How to get the leather pants this yellow, is a closely guarded secret, like the recipe for the Appenzeller cheese.

Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau

One of the last frontiers in the Alps was the Eiger Nordwand (Eiger North Face) which was first ascended in 1938. We didn't want to climb it, but just see and experience the sheer size of it and take a train through the Eiger up to the Jungfraujoch. Sounds crazy, doesn't it and yes it is, but about that later.

But first, we hopped in a rental and drove to the medieval town of Gruyère at the language border of  German and French in Switzerland. 

The castle's chapel is home to a Tibetan museum, which is very impressive.

Assuming that the movie Alien is well known, it is somewhat of a surprise that the creator of the alien itself has a museum in old village as well as a bar. It is like the movie, somewhat disturbing.

Our next stop was Lake Geneva, where we stayed the Hotel Rivage in Lutry, very quaint and right at the harbor. The entire region is called Lavaux and besides being a World Heritage site it's also known for its wonderful white wine.

The slope on the Swiss side faces South and that is ideal for growing grapes. The villages are embedded in the vineyards and each village is very proud of their wine, e.g. Saint-Saphorin, Epesses etc.

We were at this magical location at the right time and those grapes look so delicious, but they are destined to become wine.

We bought a bottle of white wine and enjoyed it on the pier, as it is legal to open alcohol in public. It did feel a little strange to not having to hide the bottle.

Over the Col Du Pillion, we drove to Wengen, which can only be reached by train. The car is safely parked in Lauterbrunnen. From our room we could watch the Jungfrau changing colors while the sun was setting. It was a magical moment.

Next morning we took a train from Wengen up to the Kleine Scheidegg and then further up through the Eiger Nordwand to the Jungfraujoch, the top of Europe (3454m or 11332 feet). The tunnel is 9km long and on the way there, the train stopped in the middle of the Nordwand where passengers had a short time to look out the windows in a very protected environment. However, since late 2016, trains no longer stop here, which is a real shame. On the South side, there is another 5 minute stop at the Eismeer (Ice Sea).

From here it goes to the Jungfraujoch, from where you can hike on the glacier to the Mönchsjochhütte. In an emergency, it serves mountaineers as a shelter.

The view down the glacier to the Konkordia place, where other glaciers meet, is just breathtaking and it seems to never end.

From the Kleine Scheidegg, we decided to walk down to Wengen, along the world famous downhill race track (Lauberhorn). It is very steep and longest world cup race in the world. The track even features a tunnel underneath the railway that racers have to navigate at high speed.

I'm so glad we made it on foot.

Zermatt

This year, the goal was to visit many medieval castles on the way to Zermatt. The first destination was Gruyère, where the famous Swiss cheese comes from. On top of the hill as a part of the old part of town is the HR. Giger museum and the HR Giger bar, both are quite an experience if you want to know what aliens are.

The next stop was Chateaux Chillon, that is built on the shore of lake Geneva. It features a prison as well as a very well ventilated "bathroom".

Driving up the Wallis, we stopped in Sion where we walked up to both castles without water and our cadence dropped dramatically when we arrived parched at the second one, where we found refuge in the nicely tempered church.

Taking the rental car and drive up to Grimentz must be a challenge for anyone who didn't grow up in the side valley. The streets are narrow and very windy with normal dump trucks, that hug the road as if the tires like staring down the embankment. We finally arrived at a village that is mostly still preserved and consists of wooden construction with a sun burned façade. Very quaint.

Our dinner was great with local specialties.

On the next day, we drove up to Zermatt, which is free of cars (nice!). Most people come here for hiking anyway and so it doesn't matter if you walk to the hotel from the train station. We were lucky and stayed in a hotel that had a very nice view of the Matterhorn. I truly was impressed with this mountain of all mountain. It is a peak that stands out with its famous bend and it looks stunning especially in the morning when there are no clouds.

A cable car took us up to the Little Matterhorn (3883m or 12740 feet), which is the highest place in Europe that can be reached with an aerial tram. From there you have an unobstructed view to the "real" Matterhorn and other 4000m high peaks.

The Gornergrat is our next site from where one can observe some of the highest peaks in the Alps. A cog railway leads up to the station on top of a ridge. The entire massif of Monte Rosa is in front of you and I cannot stress enough how impressive this is. 

Because it was such a beautiful day, we decided to hike down to the next station Riffelberg, where we hopped on the train down to Zermatt.